Chapter 6: Following the Danube - Downhill All the Way!

After leaving Danaueschingen (the official starting point) the Danube quickly became a small river, but not big enough to support boat traffic. This was taken our second day.

We rode 419 miles over 11 days. Rob likes to tell people that it was all downhill, since we were following the flow of the river.  But we passed many people going in the other direction so it couldn't have been that much downhill. Really, it was mostly just flat, easy riding. Most days we hardly broke a sweat and we quickly mastered the few hills that came our way.

This picture was taken our second day out. Notice how flat the bike path is. This was not a challenging ride. We were happy just toodling along.

We did hit one short steep hill that brought us to this lovely rest stop put there just for bicyclists on the outskirts of a little town. We got off our bikes and pushed them up the last bit. (We have no pride.) There was a shelter with a picnic table, maps, and a log book. I glanced through it to see if any Americans had been there. And the only American entry was by someone from Los Angeles complaining about the hill. They had written something like, "Why would you put such a steep hill on a bicycle route for tourists?" I thought, "How pompous you Americans are that you think a hill can be erased just for you."

These are a couple closeups of the rest area. It felt very welcoming. In fact, during the entire trip we felt welcomed as cyclists (except when the people blocked me from getting off the train). 

If you look carefully you'll see a bit of wildlife hiding in the grass on the island in the middle of the river. This picture was taken on day 3. You won't see this part of the Danube on your Viking River Cruise.

But later that afternoon the river had become a significant presence. We stayed overnight in Riedlingen, a small city across the river from the bike path.

On day 6 the river became large enough to support a local yacht club.

On Day 8, we came to the Weltenburg Abbey, about 250 miles from the start of the Danube. From the abbey our Danube Bike Trail guide book said: "The official bicycle route takes a steep and busy road up the mountain and then follows a rough forest track, bypassing much of the dramatic scenery as the Danube winds its way through the Franconian Jura. We therefore recommend you board an excursion boat or wooden barge at Weltenburg and enjoy the views from the water on the 5 km. trip to Kelheim." 

The excursion boat makes its way through the Danube Gorge to the Weltenburg Benedictine Abbey. 

We opted for one of the wooden barges. 

Our bicycles fit easily on board.

That's the Weltenburg Abbey in the background.

A view of the Danube from a bridge in Regensberg. Now we're getting into serious river cruising territory. Still day 8.

Day 10, we took a ferry across the river in Niederalteich.

Day 11, just before Passau. The Danube's gotten pretty big, big enough for plenty of river cruise ships to take over the riverfront.

Passau is located near the Austrian and Czech borders, at the confluence of three rivers, the Danube, Inn, and Ilz. This was the end of our journey.

I suppose a professional photographer could take pictures that would turn the Danube that we rode along into a much more majestic and picturesque river, but in the end, from my point of view, it was just a river. So what makes it such a big deal? A big enough deal for all the river cruises that make their way up and down its waters, and all the bicyclists that ride along its shores? 

Whenever we seek a new adventure we look for a compass, a direction to guide our wanderings. The Appalachian Trail provides hikers with an historic trail over a couple thousand miles. Mountain climbers in Colorado check off the list of fourteen thousand foot peaks. Rivers serve tourists with a means of luxury travel where they can see many cities without having to pack their bags every morning. And the Danube, with its maintained bike route along its shores, gave us a compass for exploring the peaceful beauty of the German culture and countryside.