Chapter 31: Home

Days 22 - 25: Saturday, July 15 - Tuesday, July 18, 2017

Saturday, 36 miles to Woodsville, NH
Sunday, 52 miles to Enfield
Monday, 45 miles to Sanbornton
Tuesday, 50 miles to Madbury


The Connecticut River around Hanover, New Hampshire. Vermont is on the left, New Hampshire on the right.


This story is about ordinary people doing something ordinary. We’re not out to set any records or do anything that hasn’t already been done. Many people have gone on bicycle trips that have lasted months or years, through several countries or around the world. In the end, they are really just doing what we are doing, riding one day at a time, taking each challenge as it comes, whether it’s fixing a flat tire or finding a place to pitch a tent, meeting wonderful people, and having fun.

For this trip, we just wanted to get on our bikes, leaving from our home in Madbury, New Hampshire, and returning in about 3½ weeks. We had a loose itinerary and an idea of riding around 40 miles a day.

For three days toward the end of our journey we meandered back and forth across the Connecticut River between New Hampshire and Vermont, picking roads that kept us closest to the river. This would be our final river crossing, to Hanover, New Hampshire. The river continues south into Connecticut, but from Hanover we headed east towards the New Hampshire seacoast and home.

Sunday morning we rode 40 miles through some nothing towns and beautiful scenery to Hanover, the home of Dartmouth College. We stopped at Molly's Restaurant for an extravagant lunch complete with desserts so enormous even we couldn't finish them. Afterwards we were full and tired; all we could think about was a nap. We searched out a grassy spot behind the restaurant and lay down under a tree to sleep.


Ride anywhere in New Hampshire or Vermont and you're bound to come across a covered bridge. Some are still in use for regular traffic, some preserved for foot traffic only. Each is unique and beautiful in its own way. This is the Cilleyville/Bog Bridge. If you want to see what it looks like in winter, click here. You can appreciate why covered bridges served such an important function. Imagine taking a horse and sleigh over a bridge covered in several feet of snow. 

Brian and Mary, friends from our Scottish music group,s spend their summers in this old farmhouse in Sanbornton. They graciously fed us dinner and put us up for our last night on the road. 

Sometimes we're in a rhythm and don't want to stop to inspect lawn art, but this was too good to pass up.

Finally, summer arrived. This was the third day with no rain and our last day on the road. We stopped in Alton for a swim in Lake Winnipesaukee, the largest lake in the Lakes Region of New Hampshire. This time we put on our bathing suits. (I didn't get a picture of Rob since we went in together. Those are just random swimmers.)

We made it home after 25 days and 1000 miles.

Our dream is to get on our bikes one day in the beginning of the summer, ride west to the Pacific Ocean, then ride south to the Mexican border, then east to the Atlantic Ocean, then north to home. We expect to take a year for this adventure and are hoping to make it happen in 2019. But until now Rob's longest bike trip was two weeks. (I'd gone on an eight-week trip in 1980.) We needed a longer trip to make sure that we really wanted to spend 12 months on our bikes. Together. 

By the end of this trip I wrote in my journal, "I feel like we're just getting warmed up." Rob and I were both feeling strong, riding together more often than not. Rob has already talked to his department chair about taking a year's unpaid leave of absence. We're waiting to hear if it will be approved. Meanwhile, for 2018 we're off to Germany.



Chapter 30: Chance Encounters

Events occurring during the time period of July 13 - July 17, 2017

When Rob and I aren't traveling on our bikes we live fairly regular lives with a semblance of routine. Rob works as a professor at the University of New Hampshire; I've been a stay-at-home parent and now that the kids are out of the house I'm working seriously at oil painting. We run most days and both pursue interests in music. For the most part our lives are pretty calm and predictable. But sometimes we need a little adventure to spice it up. Maybe that's why we don't put much effort into planning our bike trips. It's just so fun to see what lies in wait for us around the bend. 

Some surprises are annoyances like a flat tire or road construction we have to navigate or failing brakes. But more often the surprises are fun random encounters. This post is about some bits of fun we had on the last several days of our journey.

Some surprises are as simple as a beautiful place to take a break and not having to share it with anyone but your favorite person who most likely was checking out the port-a-john when I took this picture.

On our rainy day ride in northern Vermont we came to a town with a little library and thought it would be a good time to stop in and do some computer work, check email or log into warmshowers.org to see if we could find a place to stay out of the unending rain. We are not strangers to small town libraries. Over the last twenty years of living in our small town of Madbury our library went from being nonexistent to a closet in the town hall to a small ranch house. One of the first purchases our library made when it moved into the ranch house was a computer.  It’s something we’ve come to expect in any library, even if the computers are outdated and you have to bang pretty hard on the keys to get a result. 

When I entered the library in the small town in northern Vermont I didn’t see anyone at the front desk so I wandered around in search of a computer. The place had a homey feel to it, with wood paneling and displays of books and shelves full of books but not a computer or librarian to be found. In one of the rooms, sitting around a wooden table in wooden chairs were about eight people discussing something or other. I stood quietly to the side for a minute or two hoping that someone might notice me. They seemed oblivious to my presence so finally in a break in the conversation I said, “Excuse me, I’m wondering if you have a computer I might use.”

A man close to me said, “If you knock on the door by the entryway, you might find someone who can help you.”

I did that and heard someone coming down a staircase. A short man, stooped with age, opened the door. It seemed like he lived upstairs. I don't know if he was even the librarian.

I repeated my query. “Sorry to bother you. Do you have a computer we might use?”

He looked at me sternly and said, very emphatically, “No we don’t have a computer and we have no plans to get one. Read a book.”

I had a good laugh at that one when I went outside and told Rob the story. "I guess he doesn't realize you can read books and still use a computer," I said.

We gave up on accessing the internet and walked across the street to a coffee shop to get some hot tea and use their wifi.

*            *            *            *            *

We didn’t really know what to expect on our journey south along the Connecticut River. We tried to stay as close to the river as possible and occasionally took back roads that turned to dirt. We had some large views of the river but more often the peaceful country roads took us under the shade of trees or out in the open with views of old farmhouses, barns, silos, and cows. One morning we stopped in a small town country store and picked up a couple of pastries. Rob’s was stale, not really a surprise in a small town with not much traffic passing through.

So we didn’t expect much when we arrived at the Barnet Village Store, an old structure with peeling paint and a front porch with an ice machine and random clutter in a pile off to the side. It was around noon, time for a lunch break, so we figured we’d check out the store’s offerings to see what we could purchase to augment our peanut butter and cheese and crackers. When we stepped inside we found wooden floors worn smooth and uneven over time, dark, low level lighting with little sunlight coming in through the small windows, shelves of basic groceries and racks with bags of chips and popcorn. This was an old New England relic from bygone times.

Then we saw the deli at the back of the store. I read the menu written on the wall behind the counter and was surprised to see that it had a selection of sandwiches to rival any café in Boston or San Francisco. By now our standard lunch had gotten pretty tiresome.

“I’m going to order a sandwich,” I said to Rob who stood beside me.

“Sounds good. I will, too.”

We both ordered a chicken salad wrap with apple, cranberries, walnuts, tomato, and lettuce.

“That’s one of our most popular sandwiches,” said the middle-aged robust woman taking our order. She put them together quickly and  wrapped them in white deli paper. I was in between books so I bought a newspaper – they had the Boston Globe. I guessed it was time to find out what new escapades our president was up to. We took our sandwiches and my newspaper outside. Across the street we found a wooden bench in a small grassy area overlooking a small stream running under a bridge.

The sun was shining with fluffy white clouds scurrying across the sky. We listened to the sound of running water and leaves rustling in the gentle breeze.

I bit into my wrap and the cornucopia of textures – crunchy walnuts, crispy apples, chewy cranberries, sinewy chicken, and smooth mayonnaise - complemented the congregation of flavors. We took our time eating in this fine outdoor café. Then I opened the paper to catch up on all the news I had been able to ignore while we were out of the country, but I didn’t let it mar the beauty around us. For a time we just sat along that stream in rural New Hampshire because, after all, time was what we had. We had found a piece of heaven in Barnet, New Hampshire, along the Connecticut River Valley.




*            *            *            *            *

A couple days later we found another hidden gem at the Gardner Memorial Wayside Park on Route 4A on our way to Wilmot, New Hampshire.

Summer had finally arrived. It was hot. We’d ridden 16 hard miles, averaging only nine miles per hour, after starting out that morning with lots of nothing to see, a few marshes and trees. There are lots of trees in New Hampshire.

If we were travelling by car, we’d probably pass right by this small park. It’s just a few picnic tables and a rocky creek.

We leaned our bikes against a table next to the creek, pulled some food out of our panniers and sat on the table. My bike shorts were hot so I took them off, along with my shoes and socks. We had the place to ourselves.

We started with a snack that turned into lunch. I ate a banana, peanuts, cheese and crackers, some dried mango, and two large chocolate chip cookies.

“We’re definitely having the biker’s diet,” said Rob. “The seefood diet.”

My hunger satisfied, I began eyeing the rock-filled stream. I dug my towel out of my pannier and walked several yards down the dirt bank, stepped onto a rock and dipped a foot in the water. It felt refreshingly cold. I studied the water to determine if it was deep enough to get a good soaking and decided it was. Forget the bathing suit, too much trouble. I took off the rest of my clothes and set them on a rock next to my towel. Then I stepped onto the sandy creek bottom and sat down in a shallow pool of water, leaned all the way back and put my head under. I came up gasping. Oh, my gosh! It was cold and invigorating. Standing up, I said to Rob, “That was wonderful! You really should come in.”

He evidently thought so, too, and he started pulling off his shorts, then abruptly stopped and said, “A car’s coming.”

I grabbed my towel off the rock and wrapped it around me. I watched as the car pulled into the parking lot, turned around and parked a short bit away from us. A few older men got out with walking poles and took off toward a hiking trail.

The coast clear, I got dressed and Rob proceeded with his swim.

The refreshing feeling stayed with us for the next seven miles of nonstop downhill riding.


Chapter 29: No Brakes!

Day 21: Friday, July 14, 2017
62 miles
Brighton State Park to Littleton, Vermont

"I thought disc brakes didn't need any maintenance," said Rob, as we were riding along.

"All I know is that they are supposed to work better in the rain," I said. 

We'd bought our touring bikes in 2013 (mine) and 2014 (Rob's). Disc brakes were a new option that the bike people convinced us were a good idea, but we didn't really know that much about them. All the new technology on bikes was a bit intimidating, really. I understood and could replace the old brakes, but these I knew nothing about. And now Rob's brakes were failing. I had no idea. 

"We should probably try to find a bike shop," I said.

The riding was great all day along the Connecticut River Valley, crossing over the river into New Hampshire or Vermont as suited our fancy. We had lots of downhills and easy uphills. And Rob still had one working brake.
We stopped in the town of North Stratford, New Hampshire, for tea and pastries. The price was right but Rob's cinnamon roll was stale. He took it back.



Eggs for Sale. And a lawnmower.


There's the Connecticut River. And, look! The road is wet. Did it rain again? Not on us. This one happened before we got there. But we'll get our turn.


Those are clouds, not snow, sitting on the mountains.


It started raining when we were only a couple miles from a covered bridge. If only we could get there before it started coming down hard. But we couldn't. We stopped under some trees to wait it out. We waited. And waited. It didn't stop.
 
We finally gave up and rode in the rain to the covered bridge.  There's Rob, getting out some rain gear. But by then the rain let up, and stopped.

I wish I could say that was our shelter from the storm, but we arrived when we were already quite wet. Still, the covered bridges that you find sprinkled throughout Vermont and New Hampshire (and maybe the rest of New England) are really lovely. It's wonderful that they are preserved.

Another shot of the Connecticut River, which serves as the border between New Hampshire and Vermont.

As we headed further south we found out that there was a bike shop in Littleton, New Hampshire, which was near a campground. But it was getting late. We had to make a decision at an intersection a few miles from town. Should we ride to the bike shop, not knowing if it would still be open after 5? Or head straight to our campground?

I stopped at the intersection, Rob right behind me.

"What do you want to do?" I asked.

"Let's go to the bike shop," Rob said.

"Okay." And I took off for two glorious miles downhill. Which was a lot of fun except that all the way I was thinking, "Shit, we're going to have to go back up this to get to the campground. And if the bike shop is closed, we're going to have to come back again tomorrow morning." 

Littleton is a tourist town in the White Mountains. We passed lots of motels and hotels and bed and breakfasts as we searched out the bike shop.

Rob, behind me, said, "I'm for finding a room in town and going out to dinner." I was thinking the same thing. Even pizza would be better than what we had to cook, which was not much. And we wouldn't have to ride back up that hill. Then again, I wasn't sure we could afford it.

We found the bike shop pretty quickly, around 5:45. It was still open. Rob headed right inside with his bike. By the time I had parked and locked mine, the lone bike mechanic had already taken apart Rob's brake and diagnosed the problem. The brake pad was completely worn down.

"Can you fix it today?" I asked.

"I'll have it done in about 15 minutes," he said.

"Well, that's good news." 

Rob said, "Let's find a room for tonight."

I wasn't up for riding back up that hill. But I also wasn't up for the challenge of finding a room somewhere in town on a Friday night, even though I knew it would be wonderful. And what would it cost? I decided to put the ball in Rob's court. 

"Okay. Why don't you ask the salesperson for advice?"

There was a young woman working on the side of the store where there was riding gear and clothing. She was tidying up, getting ready to close the store for the day. Rob went over to talk to her. I sat down on a step by the door. I watched while he made a phone call. Then he came back over to me. He was not smiling. 

"The cheapest place in town has a room for two hundred dollars."

"Forget that," I said, and sighed. I guessed we were riding back up that hill. At least we wouldn't have to come back to town in the morning.

The young saleswoman - her name was Jen - came over to us. "I can give you a ride to the campground if you'd like," she said.

"Really? That would be terrific," and as I said that I was mentally reviewing the food we had available to cook for dinner. We had a package of instant flavored rice and nothing else except snack food. Normally we'd find a grocery store on the ride to the campground. But this was too good an offer to pass up. We'd make do.

Rob said, "Are you sure it's not too much trouble?" 

"Not at all." She had a rack on top of her car for both our bikes. We threw our panniers in the back. And before she started the engine she turned to us and said, "I can stop somewhere if you need to pick up anything for dinner. There's a Hannaford on the way."

How did she know? 

This is the magic of traveling by bicycle, the people you meet along the way who step in to give a helping hand just when you need it the most. And what we needed just then was a ride to the campground with a stop along the way to pick up a rotisserie chicken for dinner. 

Thank you, Jen! Please come visit us soon so we can return the favor.





Chapter 28: And the Rain Keeps Coming

Day 20: Thursday, July 13, 2017
64 miles
Brighton State Park to Brighton State Park, Vermont

We woke up to rain, hardly a surprise. But we were dry and comfortable as we ate our usual breakfast of oatmeal, raisins, and walnuts in our lean-to, where there was plenty of room to spread out, even with our tent and bicycles inside. My hot tea cooled to luke warm as we watched the rain come down and talked about our options.

Now that we were clearly headed in the direction of home, we still had flexibility in our schedule. The only definite was a doctor's appointment Rob had in a week, something he couldn't miss as he'd be leaving for his sabbatical in Australia at the beginning of August. I had brought along the directions for a loop ride from our Best Bike Rides New England book. (The book is out of print but you can get it cheap from Amazon.) It's called the "Northeast Kingdom Challenge" and we were sitting right along its 59 mile route. Riding it had been our plan for today. But it was raining.

Our conversation went something like this.

Me: "What do you want to do?"

Rob: "I don't know."

We sat and watched the rain come down.

Me: "We could go into town and see if there's a coffee shop or library where we could hang out."

Rob: "We could."

We sat and thought about that idea.

Me: "I don't really want to pack up and ride somewhere else and have to set up again in the rain."

Rob: "Me neither."

Me: "Well, let's at least get breakfast cleaned up and then decide."

We rode the three miles into town with our indecision still fully intact. We couldn't find a library or an appealing coffee shop. We stopped at the post office to mail home our Quebec maps. And the rain matched our unrelenting indecision with its unrelenting decisiveness.

"I don't really want to hang out at the campsite all day. You want to just go ahead and do the ride?" I asked Rob while we were still inside the post office.

"Sure." 

Anticipating riding in the rain is worse than the actual fact of riding in the rain. As long as it's not a cold rain, and it wasn't. And we had the added benefit of riding without our heavy panniers. The next day I wrote in my journal: "Great ride yesterday...Rained for the first part to East Burke, then cloudy, then drizzle."

Shelter from the rain.

The rain took a break while we rode past Lake Willoughby. If the sun had been out we probably would have stopped for a swim. But we contented ourselves with the view and the break from the rain.

By the time we arrived back at our campsite around seven o'clock, the rain had stopped. We had picked up some food in Island Pond and cooked up probably the best dinner of the trip so far - scrambled eggs with onion, sausages, red pepper, potatoes, and a little salsa.



Although the ride had "challenge" in its name, we didn't find it to be difficult at all, just a beautiful ride through northern Vermont. But there were a fair number of hills and after heading down one of them Rob said, "My rear brake isn't working."

Chapter 27: A Warm Welcome Home to the U.S. of A.

Day 19: Wednesday, July 12, 2017
48 miles
North Hatley, Quebec, to Brighton State Park, Vermont

As we were checking out of the chocolate inn the owner suggested a route along back roads that got us to the highway for Coaticook. Once on the highway we hit some fantastic riding. With its wide smooth shoulder and slightly rolling hills, we cruised along, enjoying the lack of rain under a brightly lit, albeit overcast sky, a cool breeze keeping the temperature perfect for riding. Everything around us was green - corn, trees, weeds. And then we'd come upon a splash of color - a red barn, a field of yellow wildflowers, a smidgeon of blue sky. By now Rob and I had found our rhythm and were mostly riding close together. I knew there was nowhere else I would rather be, nothing else I would rather be doing at that moment. And then it got even better.


We'd only gone about 15 or 20 miles when we came to the Coaticook Dairy. Its gigantic building just sucked me into its parking lot. That happens when I'm bicycle touring. Anything faintly resembling something delicious and I just can't help myself. My bicycle turns into the parking lot before I know what has happened. It doesn't matter that I had chocolate crepes for breakfast. It doesn't matter that I've barely ridden enough miles to have earned a treat. This was ice cream and any time ice cream steps in front of me, I'd be a fool to pass it up. 

I should point out, if you haven't noticed by now after following this blog, that I'm usually the one who initiates the stops. That's because since Rob came down with pulmonary hypertension I generally ride in front so I get first pick of places to stop.  Rob hasn't once complained about my choices. And he'll never turn down ice cream. I knew that.

This is obviously a big-time ice cream operation. I am happy to report that my vanilla ice cream cone was top-notch. 

We'd decided to make our way back to Vermont through Coaticook because we'd heard that there was a must-see gorge in the town. It wasn't. I guess it's worth seeing if you don't get out much, but we were unimpressed. Still, if we'd passed it by we probably would have worried that we'd missed something special.

Not exactly the Grand Canyon, is it? Fortunately the entry fee only set us back $15 (Canadian) for the two of us.


But there was a very cool suspension bridge.




Our stop at the gorge wasn't a total loss. A restaurant right next door had outdoor seating in a beautiful garden. We  stopped for a tea and literature break.

Then it was on to the border crossing and into Vermont. You may remember from a previous post that I have generally found the Canadian border crossing guards to be friendlier than the Americans but that this time entering Canada the guy was a little annoying. Still, my generalization holds. There's a question on the border security guard application form that asks, "Do you enjoy being mean to people?" The correct answer is yes.

Here's what happened. As we approached the booth, there was a sign that said, "Have your passports ready." But before we could stop and get out our passports, the guy at the booth waved us on so we proceeded ahead. When we were at the booth he said, "Stay on your bikes." 

Now of course you know that if you stop and don't get off your bike you're going to fall over. So we couldn't take him literally. I guessed he meant that we should just take our butts off our seats, keeping our feet on either side of the bike. Hopefully you get the picture. We both did that. Then he said, "I need your passport." And that presented a problem. For Rob, not for me.

My passport was in my handlebar pack. I could get it out without moving my feet. But Rob doesn't have a handlebar pack. His passport was in his pannier and he couldn't get it without swinging his leg over his crossbar and as soon as he did that the border crossing guard yelled, "Stay on your bike!"

Rob is a people pleaser. He didn't say anything, just grabbed his passport, which fortunately was easily accessible, quickly got back on his bike, and handed his passport to the guy.

As Mr. Nice Guy handed us back our passports I said, "How about, Welcome back home to the United States? Did you have a nice vacation in Canada?"

He said, "I'm just doing my job."

"Well you could be a little nicer about it," I said, and I took off.

For some reason I expected that once we got back to Vermont we'd hit hills and some hard riding. But to my delight, the hills were rolling, just enough for terrific downhills. We came to the town of Island Pond and found it to be bigger than we expected of a town this far north. It had an adequate grocery store where we stopped and picked up a couple hard lemonades before riding on to Brighton State Park where, with rain in the forecast, we paid extra for a site with a lean-to.