Circling the U.S. Chapter 34: The Rest of Montana

Monday, August 26 - Thursday, August 29, 2019

I took this photo as we were leaving Lake McDonald in Glacier National Park on our way to Apgar Village. After stopping for breakfast we rode to Whitefish, a total of 42 miles for the day.

Rob and I arrived in Whitefish with time to walk around town and we agreed that we liked the feel of it. With a ski area nearby and quiet residential area within walking distance of downtown, it felt like a very liveable city.

Jen and Tim were our Warm Showers hosts in Whitefish. Tim bicycle toured for eleven years straight at one time in his life.

We spent an enjoyable evening with Tim and Jen eating burgers and talking about Tim's bicycling adventures. We tend to stay away from any talk of politics, but we were intrigued with the bar of soap on their kitchen sink. Tim had an interesting insight, saying he thinks that we are in a cold civil war. There may be some truth to that. He said, "People will go to red states for guns and fireworks, blue for abortions and weed." He told us that a kid came knocking on his door to hand out literature for the Republican Party, then came back a few minutes later asking where to get some weed. "I said, you're working for the wrong party, man. He said, that's just my job."

Tuesday, August 27, we rode 56 miles to Eureka, breaking 3000 miles along the way. To give some perspective on that accomplishment, in 1980, when I was 24, I accomplished that feat in eight weeks. We just did it in twelve. There is truth to the bumper sticker I almost bought at a bike shop in Hayward, Wisconsin: "The older I get the faster I was."

The day's riding was terrific, with a perfect temperature, not too hot. We started out on Hwy 93 out of Whitefish, with lots of traffic. Then after 5 miles we took a country road for 10 miles; then back on the highway with a minimal shoulder. The last 15 miles into Eureka was again on a quiet country road.

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We love stopping for lunch when we find benches or picnic tables overlooking beautiful vistas. But some days we have to settle for any grassy spot in the shade. Downtown Stryker sits a quarter mile off U.S. Route 93, with a post office and a few rundown residences. The post office was closed when we arrived. We parked our bikes and ate our lunch under the tree you see behind Rob.

Ten miles after Stryker, we came to Fortine, and Renee's bakery.

It was definitely the most happening place in the small town, hosting community gatherings, family reunions, and hungry bicyclists.

Renee had many choices of good things to eat, but her specialty was pie so that's what we got. Rob had strawberry rhubarb and I had cherry. Both were yummy.

With her pies done for the day, Renee enjoys visiting with her customers.

In East Glacier we saw a sign for "Horseback Ride's." I've been noticing that many people do not know the difference between plural and possession or contraction.

We spent Tuesday night with Warm Showers hosts Nikki and Jeremy and their daughter Vivian. Nikki works as a reporter for the local newspaper. She and Jeremy are not cyclists. They found out about Warm Showers when Nikki did a story about a cyclist passing through. They own a modest two family home in downtown Eureka, where they live on the top floor. The offered us a foam pad on their living room floor to sleep on, and a steak dinner. It was perfect.

Jeremy and Nikki's daughter Vivian made our stay with them extra special. Rob got to read her his favorite Dr. Seuss book, Fox in Socks, igniting many happy memories of when our kids were young. She reminded us of our daughter Kylee with her active imagination and solitary play.

More than a place to stay, our Warm Showers hosts offer advice. After leaving Eureka on Wednesday, August 28, we had a choice of following the east or west shore of Lake Koocanusa. Jeremy encouraged us to choose the alternate route along the west side as having much less traffic, and said that the road was in fine shape. We took his advice and did not regret it.

Before crossing the Koocanusa Bridge we stopped and made morning tea. Then as we were crossing the bridge Rob realized he had a flat tire. While he fixed it, I met Dave, an engineer from Vancouver, Washington, who invited us to stay with him and his family if we passed through that way.

The Koocanusa Bridge, 215 feet high, is the tallest and longest bridge in Montana. In 1972 it was named the world's most beautiful long span bridge. That's what the sign said. It didn't say who made that decision.

Afer crossiing the bridge I saw two signs. On one side of the road the sign said “Falling Rocks next 26 miles.” The sign on the other side said, “Entering Grizzly Bear Country.”

Rob called out, “Did you see the sign about grizzly bears?” He's got a thing about bears ever since that bear crossed the road in front of him in Alberta.

I said, “I’m more worried about the falling rocks.” I remember when a landslide landed on a couple cars a few years ago in Colorado. No one was hurt but I don't imagine a rock landing on a bicyclist would have the same happy outcome.

The 93-mile long Koocanusa Lake came into being when the Libby Dam, dedicated in 1975, was built at its southern end. The bridge was built first.

The riding for the next 35 miles was fantastic. Long, gradual uphills interwoven with glorious downhills, all with intermittent views of Lake Koocanusa in Northwestern Montana.

Here's a happy cyclist.

As we rode along I noticed much evidence of rockslides and only hoped that no rocks would slide on us. And also, this animal skull.

We encountered not a single logging truck and probably fewer than ten vehicles. That's Rob coming up the hill.

It cost us $5 to camp at the McGillvray US Forest Service campground. Hardly anyone was there. It didn't look good for any neighbors with beer to share until a couple pulled in with an RV as it was getting dark.

With so few hot days, I had trouble believing that summer was winding down. The leaves on the ground foliage were turning yellow.

Thursday, August 29, was another one of those days with mechanical aggravation mixed with good food and beautiful scenery. We were all packed up and ready to get on our bikes in the morning when Rob said, "Did you check your tires?" I squeezed my rear tire; it was flat. I changed it but couldn't find the hole.

This sign says, "Fun ahead," a great way to start our morning ride after fixing a flat tire. 

We rode 25 miles to Libby where we treated ourselves to a second breakfast. Before he'd even ordered, Rob told me he was having a strawberry shake for dessert. If he was going to do that then of course I would have a chocolate malted. It was delicious. It was a good thing we weren't planning on riding right away. We bought groceries and spent some time in the library and when we came out at 2:00, my rear tire was flat again. Not wanting to deal with it, we rode to the local bike shop. The owner couldn't find the source of the flat either. Rob insisted we just get a new tire.

We got back on the road at 3:15 with 30 miles ahead of us. It was hot and hilly, but we still made it to the US Forest Service Dorr Skeel campground before seven o'clock. It turned out to be a real gem.

I can't place this scene exactly but I believe I took it after we left Libby.

The Dorr Skeel campground was one of those surprising gems we occasionally stumble upon. There were only seven campsites and only one other one was occupied. All but one site was on the lake. Of course we went for a swim.

We even had a place to store our food safely away from the animals.

Dinner that night was one of our delicious campsite creations: sauteed vegetables and potatoes, simmered in beer, with a sprinking of pecans and pizza spice.

Watching the sunset was the perfect way to spend our last night in Montana.