Out Spokin': Circling the U.S. Chapter 38: The San Juan Islands

Saturday, September 14 - Friday, September 20, 2019

It feels like summer ended without ever beginning. We did go for a swim in many of the lakes we've passed by, but it rarely felt truly hot, more like an extended late spring. And now it's autumn. The leaves are changing colors, not like New England, so it will be interesting to see what autumn looks like here in the Pacific Northwest.

We spent six days exploring the San Juan Islands with some rain, lots of clouds, and occasional sunshine.

What we lacked in mileage we made up for in hills. Lopez was our warmup, Orcas was a hill monster, and San Juan offered more rolling terrain with the occasional hill to keep us in line. We explored each island as tourists, stopping to wander along cliffs, have a beer or a cup of tea, and learn about the little known Pig War. Mostly we rode unencumbered by our usual heavy loads.

Our journey to the San Juan Islands began on Saturday, September 14, dafter spending three relaxing days visiting our friends Shona, Jared, Isaac, and Alec in Mt. Vernon.

We enjoyed an outing to Bellingham with Isaac, Shona, and Alec.

Rob had a chance to rekindle his parenting memories spending time playing with and reading to three-year-old Isaac.

Jared sent us off Saturday morning with homemade blueberry waffles topped with maple syrup, a truly delicious treat.

We passed this scene on our way to catch the ferry.

Washington State has many islands and many ferries. The ferry ride to any of the San Juan Islands begins in Annacortes. As a foot passenger or bicyclist, once you pay to go to any of the four islands served by the ferry - Lopez, Shaw, Orcas, and San Juan - you don't have to pay again, unless you are going on to Victoria in British Columbia.

The view from the ferry to Lopez Island on Saturday afternoon. When the sky looks like this, we're just happy it isn't raining.

Passing the time on the short ferry ride to Lopez Island, perusing a newspaper, the first I've read in months. Not much new.

We passed a farmer working his field just outside the Spencer Spit State Park on Lopez Island. I don't know what religious sect he belonged to, but we've seen quite a few horses and buggies during our travels. This was the first horse-drawn plow.

After setting up our tent at the state park we set out for a short bike ride past the main village on the island.

Lots and lots of driftwood, especially large logs, can be found everywhere on the islands. On Lopez Island we saw many of these lovely beaches along coves, but we couldn't stop to take a walk along one of them or sit on one of the logs to take a rest and soak up the view. They are all private.

We've seen countless abandoned cars in front yards and fields. Rob says maybe the owners consider them lawn art. Or maybe the cars are memories their owners just can't bear to part with. I especially liked this one.

We were thankful for a shelter in the campground where we could cook our dinner Saturday night without worrying about the rain that threatened all day. It held off until we were in our tent for the night, and stopped before sunrise. Even so, the morning sky did not look promising. But the rain held off again and Sunday we enjoyed more riding around the island.

Sunday morning we rode to the southern end of Lopez Island, to Agate Beach, where a small piece of shoreline was set aside for the public to enjoy. Rob and I sat on a big driftwood log while we ate lunch and admired the small bit of blue sky trying to break through. The extended forecast for our time in the San Juans had called for rain and clouds with no sun in sight.

After lunch we hiked out to Iceberg Point. We don't know why it's called that. We didn't see any icebergs and I don't imagine any ever find their way there. But I could be wrong.

The literature touts Lopez Island residents as being friendlier than those on some of the other islands. Supposedly they have a signature two-finger wave they give you as they drive by. I don't know about that. All I saw were signs basically saying, don't touch my property.

Many of the houses attached to the private beaches are quite modest.

"Private Beach & Tidelands." In New Hampshire, the only private beaches are above the high tide mark.

We bicycled to Shark Reef Sanctuary where we found, not sharks, but many lazy Harbor Seals just hanging out.

When we returned to our campsite Sunday evening we gathered what we needed for dinner and walked down to the waterfront. We'd picked up some chicken and apple sausage in town which, along with a yellow pepper and an apple we bought at a farm stand, we added to an instant Spanish rice dish. It was delicious, one of our better camping meals.

Several deer joined us for dinner as we watched the ferry pass by in the distance.

This is another version of the previous scene. You can still see the ferry in the distance but I wanted to capture the driftwod in the foreground. Hundreds of logs littered the beach. How they got there one can only guess. Logging trucks dumping their loads? Logging operations gone awry?

Rob wanted to go out to eat but I insisted on eating here. You couldn't beat the ambience. Then again, Rob always does the dishes.

Monday morning we had four miles to ride back to the ferry terminal. We passed a lovely cove along the way.

"Port Stanley is that way and, oh, by the way, don't even think of setting foot on my private beach."

Here's an idea for what to do with all those extra baseball caps.

Residents collect the driftwood to make random beach sculptures. Maybe that's why they put up all the No Trespassing signs, so meddling tourists don't come along and mess up their handiwork.

Once on Orcas Island we had about nine miles to ride to the town of Eastsound where we had a Warm Showers place for the night. Right off the bat from the ferry we had a killer hill that we both succombed to and walked our bikes up the last bit. Even so, we added a short detour to Deer Harbor where we stopped for lunch.

We had codfish burritoes for lunch at the end of this pier in Deer Harbor on Orcas Island. Notice the blue sky. With all the cloudy weather it was nice to feel the sun.

Eastsound sits in the middle of Orcas Island. We arrived mid-afternoon with time to wander and sit outside at a restaurant on the water with a beer (Rob) and tea (me). Then we found the local grocery store and picked up spaghetti and vegetables for dinner, and a bottle of wine. Our warm showers host, Jessica, lives on the outskirts of town. She had plans for the evening but told us to make ourselves at home.

Rob was very excited to find an affordable Merlot with the Happy Camper label. We enjoyed it while anticipating a night sleeping in a comfortable bed.

When Jessica came home Monday night and told us that we were in for rain and high winds Tuesday, we decided to take the day off. But after sleeping in and being lazy for a while, the weather didn't look so bad. It was one of those frustrating days when the forecast didn't match up to reality, but whenever we thought about getting on our bikes to explore the island, it either started raining or the wind got fierce. We went into town and got lunch and ice cream. The rest of the day we hung out at Jessica's, which wasn't such a bad way to spend a day.

Wednesday we set out to explore the eastern half of the Orcas Island. Our granny gears got a lot of use; I considered it practice for the California coast. For those of you reading this in New Hampshire, the hills had Bow Lake beat.

The San Juan Islands are a very popular bicycling destination for both individuals and groups. We saw these signs often on the big hills.

We rode out to Doe Bay Resort where we looked forward to having tea and a treat while enjoying the view at the Doe Bay Cafe. But traveling in the off-season when the crowds have gone home means that seasonal businesses curtail their hours. The cafe was closed. Sadly we had to forgo the hot tea. But we raided our food bag for our own treats and enjoyed the view. When we're rich and too old to bicycle we'll come back and stay in style at the resort. It's a beautiful place.

Just a few miles past Doe Bay, on our way back to Eastsound, we came to the Catkin Cafe and Art Gallery. It didn't have the fine view of Doe Bay, but it was open. We shared a pot of tea and a peach scone outside on their back deck. It was almost lunch time, but when we hit the next steep hill, I was thankful for just the right amount of energy that scone gave me. I never would have made it with a full stomach.

Rob wanted me to take this picture of the cafe sign, but I think he should have looked happier about it.

We made it back to Eastsound with plenty of time to have a picnic lunch, pick up our stuff at Jessica's, and stop in town for ice cream before starting out for the nine-mile ride back to the ferry. While we were outside enjoying our cones, the couple sitting at the next table asked us about our bicycle trip. "Do you plan days off?" the woman asked.

"Days off kind of just happen," I said. "Like yesterday. With the rain we didn't go anywhere." I asked them where they were from.

"I'm from Denver and he's from Boulder," she said.

"Where in Boulder?" I asked, since we have a condo and spend quite a bit of time there.

The gentleman seemed taken aback, but answered, "Marine Street."

At that point, Rob, who had been facing him, said, "I think your son played baseball with our son."

That was back in 2011, and we've all aged a bit, so it wasn't surprising that it took us a while to recognize each other. We had fun reconnecting, catching up on what our sons have been up to, before Rob and I set off to catch the ferry to San Juan Island.

Day 97 Wednesday, September 11, 2019

A rest day in Mt. Vernon

We slept in, played with three-year-old Isaac, researched bike routes on the San Juan Islands,went to the grocery store and the bike shop to have our chains checked. (We don't need new chains, even after 2000 miles.) Rob cooked mandarin pork chops for dinner.

Day 98 Thursday, September 12, 2019

Another rest day in Mt. Vernon

We'd been debating whether or not to bicycle to Bellingham. Problem solved when Shona decided to drive us there for an outing with the kids.

Day 99: Friday, September 13, 2019

One more rest day in Mt. Vernon

Shona and Jared are so generous and their two little boys so much fun, how could we not stay another day? Tomorrow we'll leave for sure, heading for the San Juan Islands. Our good weather luck is over. The extended forecast calls for rain.

Day 100: Saturday, September 14, 2019 46 miles to Spencer Spit State Park on Lopez Island

Shona and Jared were so gracious, letting us stay with them as long as we wanted. Nice to just relax and get to know them and their little boys. Yesterday I didn't leave the house all day, just worked on getting caught up on my blog, an ever-losing battle.

We were in no hurry this morning for an early start when we found out that the family tradition is for Jared to make pancakes for breakfast on Saturdays. With real maple syrup and blueberries. That fueled us for the ride to Anacortes.

We took the ferry to Lopez Island, pitched our tent at the state park 4 miles from the ferry landing, then did some exploring on our bikes. Lopez is described as the least hilly of the three main tourist islands, but that doesn't mean there aren't hills.

Rain was in the forecast today, but held off.

Day 101: Sunday, September 15, 2019 28 miles around Lopez Island

Spencer Spit State Park

It rained hard during the night and we woke to overcast skies. The campground has few amenities, but it does have a shelter so we were able to cook breakfast without the specter of rain hanging over our heads. After breakfast we walked down to the beach area, which we found to be quite picturesque. I told Rob that, instead of going out to dinner, which he was voting for, I'd be happier cooking our dinner in the shelter down by the water. It beat any outside dining we could find for price and view.

We didn't get on our bikes until 10:30, enjoying a leisurely riding (unloaded) and sightseeing day. We had lunch at Agate Beach and went on a short hike out to Iceberg Point with its cliffs and open views of the coastline. Then a few more miles to Shark Reef Sanctuary where we saw harbor seals hanging out on a big rock island.

The day began overcast but it never rained. Blue sky appeared around noon, but never completely chased away the clouds. We arrived back at the campground before 6 o'clock and cooked dinner on the beach, watching the ferry pass by, sharing the picnic area with several deer enjoying their dinner as well.

The literature on Lopez Island says that the islanders are a friendly lot who will give you a two-finger wave when they pass you in a car. Maybe that's so, but they are certainly protective of their beach front and other property. I have never seen so many no trespassing signs in one place. We passed many beautiful beaches, but don't even think of setting your foot on any of them.

Day 102: Monday, September 16, 2019 24 miles to Eastsound, WA

Warm Showers host Jessica

Although it rained again during the night, we had beautiful weather today. Took the ferry to Orcas Island, then took an indirect route to Eastsound. Had a leisurely lunch of codfish burritoes on the pier in Deer Harbor, then arrived in Eastsound with time to wander around and sit outside on the water enjoying beer (Rob) and a cup of hot tea (me) before finding our way to our Warm Showers shelter.

Jessica came home in between evening engagements to meet us and check in on how we were doing. She lives a fascinating life, working seasonal jobs on the island in the summer and taking off to travel around the world in the winter. She's bicycled throughout Mexico, Cuba, India, mostly solo. She speaks fluent Spanish and seems to be very involved in the local island culture. Staying with Warm Showers people gives us so much more than a place to sleep. The people who host us are amazing, giving us a picture into so many diverse lifestyles.

Day 103: Tuesday, Sept. 17, 2019 Zero miles

Warm Showers host Jessica

The forecast called for rain and high winds so we slept in and took the day off. Went into downtown Eastsound and found lunch at the local ice cream shop where the owner had just started serving soups and grilled cheese sandwiches to keep the business going for locals in the cooler months.

Day 104: Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2019 28 miles around Orcas Island, WA

Warm Showers host Brendan (San Juan Island)

Our ride to the ferry took us through this lovely valley along Crow Valley Road.

I was intrigued by this partly loaded logging truck parked in front of a modest house across the street from where I stopped to take the previous picture.

The ferry terminals on these islands are modest affairs.

Rob likes to get to a ferry an hour ahead of time. I don't mind aiming for that as it builds in extra time for a flat tire or other unknowns, such as running into the father of a kid your son once played baseball with. We arrived with less than an hour to spare but it was still plenty of time to enjoy some time to relax and enjoy the beautiful day.