"I have no idea
where we are."
We had finally come
to an intersection, but I couldn’t find it on my map. I guessed that we had
bicycled off the page I had brought along, and now we were on another page, one left at home.
Rob and I were
exploring a new route from Madbury, New Hampshire, to York Beach in Maine. It
had been a lovely ride so far. Riding along quiet country roads, we’d had a
light tail wind; I had wanted to average 12 miles per hour, and we were riding
comfortably at 13. We passed lush green fields, with horses grazing here and
there. The yellow daffodils and forsythia of two weeks ago had given way to
gentle purples of lilacs and phlox. The trees sparkled with yellow-green spring
leaves. All was fine except that somehow we had turned up on the wrong
road.
I flagged down a
pickup truck as it pulled up to the stop sign.
“We’re trying to
get to York,” I told the woman in the passenger’s seat. “We seem to be lost.”
“We’re going that
way, over the mountain. You turn left here and then take a right.”
For some reason
that didn’t make sense. After they pulled away, I checked with the woman in my smart phone. She confirmed the left turn. We’d ridden extra miles
but we weren’t too far off course.
Then we hit dirt
and gravel for a stretch of road work. Bouncing along, I felt unsteady and
unclipped from one of my pedals, just in case. But we turned off onto a paved
road – Mountain Road - soon enough, taking us over Mt. Agamenticus. Then we
were on dirt again and I started skidding going up a hill when my tires
wouldn’t grab. I glanced at my map, and couldn’t see where it was marked as
unpaved; I guess I can’t trust the map. Fortunately the sparse traffic
didn’t kick up much dust.
The Cape Neddick River runs into the ocean just north of York Beach. |
Back on pavement,
easy riding brought us to the coastal road. At 30 miles we arrived in York
Beach, a strip of summer rentals, ice cream stands and T-shirt
shops. Tucked down a side street that dead-ended onto the beach was our
destination, Rossi's Italian Bakery, a treasure my friends and I had found on
a bike ride a couple years ago.
But it wasn't
there. Just a sign that said “Bakery For Lease or Sale.”
A young man saw us
standing, dejected, in front of the empty storefront. "They moved. The
rent went up. They're over on Route 1 now."
Gone. |
Route 1 is the main
thoroughfare running north and south just slightly inland from the coast,
crowded with traffic lights, strip malls, restaurants, and tourist junk shops. We
weren't going to bike over there, not even for a delicious Italian pastry.
Even with the setbacks, we enjoyed the morning. But our day turned around from the point when our
destination disappeared.
We rode out to
Nubble Lighthouse, one of those tourist places where everyone stops – artists,
bicyclists, tour buses, families with kids excitedly climbing all over the
rocky shoreline. A cold wind was blowing today; I put on my neck warmer,
thankful I’d brought it. Rob and I sat on one of the stone benches overlooking
the surf and ate our hummus and tomato sandwiches, with no delicious Italian
pastry for dessert. I pulled out a tiny fun-size bag of M&Ms that I had
discovered in the pantry that morning.
"There aren't
enough to share," I said. The entire bagful didn't even fill my hand,
nothing fun about that.
"Come on, give
me some," said Rob.
There were four
blue ones. Blue is Rob's favorite color. "Here, I'll give you the blue
ones."
The benches had
inscriptions on them, many in memory of someone.
I said, “When I die, throw my ashes somewhere in the Rocky Mountains and dedicate a bench to me.”
I said, “When I die, throw my ashes somewhere in the Rocky Mountains and dedicate a bench to me.”
I was hanging out
with the bikes while Rob went to the restroom. A man heading into the gift shop
said, "You're courageous to be out riding in this wind."
"Oh, it won't
be bad," I said. "It's always windy here because we're out on a
point."
But I was wrong.
That light tailwind we had in the morning became a strong headwind that plagued
us the entire way home. Pushing against it, I was climbing hills I’d never
noticed before on this ride. And that damn wind kept throwing crap into my
eyes.
When we passed
through Kittery, I thought about calling for a stop at Lil's, my favorite café. I was getting hungry
and sure would enjoy something delicious. But I decided to tough it out, build
some character, and I’ve got excess weight to get rid of. Besides, we had
planned to get home in time to catch up on some chores and we were already
heading into overtime.
After passing Kittery we had a terrific view of theSarah Long Bridge that connects Maine andNew Hampshire. |
We had saved the
most scenic part of the ride for the return trip, but it was lost on me. I
thought about my celebration ride two weeks ago, grateful the weather was
perfect that day.
We were almost back
in Dover, less than an hour from home. I called to Rob to pull off as we passed
by a golf course.
I said, “I need to
eat.”
We sat on a stone
wall and pulled out the rest of our food, apples and peanuts. Rob tucked his
apple core inside the stone wall. “That’ll make a squirrel happy,” he said.
Once we got through Dover, we took the direct
way home, down the state highway with traffic whizzing by, thankful for the
wide shoulder. Once on the quiet country road that took us to our neighborhood,
I no longer cared about how fast we were going, or about the chores that
weren’t going to get done. I was just happy to get home, shower, and take a
nap.
I had wanted to
average at least 12 miles an hour. We barely made 11. But we had ridden 66
miles in tough conditions. I’ll call it a successful training ride. In a week
Rob and I are celebrating our anniversary by bicycling to Rockport,
Massachusetts, and back. It's about 70 miles
one way, maybe 80. We want to make sure we’re in good enough shape to enjoy it.
At dinner Rob went
on and on about what a great day he had, what a beautiful ride that was. I’m
usually the optimistic one, so I am completely befuddled. Where did he ride
today and who was that riding with me?
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